Quote from: S'mon;818356I think they just changed that again:
https://www.change.org/p/moya-greene-lift-the-restrictions-on-shipping-water-based-paints/u/9295196


"We have lifted the four item restriction. Customers can now send an unlimited number in any one package but the volume of each container should still not exceed 150ml.

The items must be securely closed and placed in a leak-proof liner, such as a sealed polythene bag, so that any inadvertent leakage is contained within the outer packaging. Surround with absorbent material such as newspaper and sufficient cushioning material to protect each item from damage. The sender's name and return address must be clearly visible on the outer packaging.

The changes went live on 12 January 2015. I trust this will be a welcome decision for you."

I am weaping tears of joy.

Quote from: Sacrosanct;818350A word of advice.  If you're wanting to start painting, and want to keep costs down, that means you're probably using Bones minis.  They are plastic, and not metal.  I think their quality, while not as high as metal, are still really good.

The thing is, is if you use Bones minis, you have to be really careful what primer, paint, and finish you use.  If you use the wrong kind, the minis will get very tacky and sticky.

I go with Army Painter primer, and will never go back.  It puts on the best coat of primer I've ever used before.  Acrylic paints, and matte for acrylics is the only options for you if you use Bones.  If you use enamel paints or matte, you'll ruin the mini.


My favorite paints of all time were actually the TSR AD&D paint line.  Great paint, and the pots were by far the best pots I've ever used.  Most of my paints are still those in fact, after 20 years.  Too bad they don't make them any more.

I'm not starting so much as RE-starting.  All my figures are metal and pre-date the use of plastic minis.  I don't like the idea of those and don't think I'd ever use them.  I loved the TSR paints as well. As I recall, they had a "basic" color set and a "monster" color set that were nice starting points, augmented as necessary by single jar additions.  There used to be a store within walking distance from my home when I lived in Jersey City that carried the whole line. THOSE were the days. . .

Quote from: Momotaro;818343There are a couple of things about triads that may sway you in their favour...

2) Second, there's a really good painting method called the three-layer or Dallimore method, which avoids blending, glazing and other advanced techniques.  Foundry do a great couple of books that cover the method well, but basically you paint on a shade colour, cover all but the deep folds and edges in the mid colour, then paint the raised areas in the highlight colour.

THAT's what ah'm talkin' about.  I was never big into mixing my own colors.  What triads would you recommend?  I like the look of the colors available from Reaper.  I may end up going that route after all. . .

Quote from: IggytheBorg;818362THAT's what ah'm talkin' about.  I was never big into mixing my own colors.  What triads would you recommend?  I like the look of the colors available from Reaper.  I may end up going that route after all. . .

If you go the triad route, I highly recommend foundry. Their traids are very well set up and easy to use, made to directly tie into their "three-step method".

Does anyone do proper paint pots anymore?  I hate dropper bottles.

Quote from: David Johansen;818365Does anyone do proper paint pots anymore?  I hate dropper bottles.

P3, Coat d'Arms, Foundry

huh, Privateer Press actually makes something I want.  I didn't think that was even possible.

Quote from: TristramEvans;818364If you go the triad route, I highly recommend foundry. Their traids are very well set up and easy to use, made to directly tie into their "three-step method".

Yeah, this.

Heard good things about Reaper Master series triads too, but have not used them as much.

GW are actually OK, but typically they want you to buy about six paints instead of three (which you don't need).

Over the years I've tinkered enough to try anything - my go-to triad for linen is from P3.

Some great info on this thread - I hadn't realised that some primers mess up  Bones minis.  The standard car primer here in the UK, Halfords, is acrylic, so I've never had any worries with that.

Also, their Gloss Acrylic Lacquer is brilliant - a good hard varnish layer to go underneath Dullcote or Army Painter Matt Varnish.

The biggest memory of pewter figures I had was that in shop class there were some molds of miniatures and me and my nerdy friends spent almost all our time there making them.

Quote from: Momotaro;818441Some great info on this thread - I hadn't realised that some primers mess up  Bones minis.  The standard car primer here in the UK, Halfords, is acrylic, so I've never had any worries with that.

There's a thread on the Reaper forum re what primers work on Bones.

My favourite (car) spray primer for minis is Simoniz grey, it gives a very nice even coverage on both pewter and Bones (though you should still wash the Bones first as they come coated in horrible mold release), and really showed off the detail pre-painting.
Simoniz white was bad though, lumpy and detail-obscuring. For some reason whites in general seem to have this problem.

I sprayed my Bones fire giants with a black primer that was a big mistake, it was 'tacky' and didn't dry for months.

Strictly you don't need a primer on Bones if they are washed well first, if there's no mold release then the acrylic paint should bind straight into the porous Bonesium. But I've had poor results with Vallejo Game Color, it tends to bead. Vallejo Model Color is much grainier and works better on Bones, but the grainy texture will show on flesh especially. Mixing the two helps, but overall my recommendation is Vallejo Game Color for pewter, something else (Reaper, probably) for Bones.