I'm a werewolf treasure-hunting alchemist who screams people off of cliffs. In human form, I look like an ex-marine turned thrill-killer, with a white handprint across my face, bloodshot eyes and a receding hairline. I've killed three dragons, cleared a bunch of dungeons (over a dozen by now), and am debating going into politics.
Boss fights are a drastic improvement over Oblivion. Each of the four dragons I've faced acted differently - one didn't even come down to engage me, it just circled overhead menacingly before soaring off. The undead bosses in the barrows have been interesting as well. Leveling is slower, and the power seems flatter than Oblivion. It has actually made melee combat interesting (especially once you start unlocking moves) and useful (invest in a few of the low level perks and upgrade your sword to sky-forged with a superior edge). God-tier builds are less obvious (it is almost impossible to not beat Oblivion handily as a Breton sorcerer with conj-resto), though Breton resto-warrior is working well for me.
I find the game easy, but I'm coming off of Dark Souls, so my perception may be skewed. I've only died a handful of times, and those are mostly at the same spots multiple times (the robbers at Nifheim, the Silver Hand leader) until I figure out the optimal strat. Alchemy is still the way to beat the game's economy, which I'm still fine with (currently sitting on around five and a half thousand gold just from random grabs as I journey around). The game's compass icons are totally incoherent, with many of them making little sense. Two similar things may have totally different icons, while two extremely different things may have the same icons.
I am attempting to be less obsessive about Bethesda games, so I have vowed not to engage in a gridded search involving opening every door and container in the game (which I did in Fallout 3, no hyperbole), but I am enjoying exploring a new world, always the most fun part of the game for me.