How's the game itself?

Also, great work for a first minis paintjob!

I like the game, it's lighter. It's a game that can work for both adults and kids (theme wise). Still feeling out how I feel about some of the rules. Need a few more scenarios under my belt and I'll let you know.

Cool paint jobs man.
Looking at this I keep getting redwall vibs.

Quote from: Ras Algethi;1030750Really not liking the cockroaches, but they were the first minis ever painted.

Nah, you're being too hard on yourself. They look just fine, and if you treat the bases like you did with the other figures, the bugs would pop right out and look great.

Also, take the advice of those who advocate "the three foot rule" -- that is, how they look from three feet away is the important part.

It took Chirine years to convince me to stop painting straps and buckles on my 25mm knights, because they could only be seen with a magnifier, so who cares?  The same for rivets on the hinges of the armor.  If you can't see it on the table, it doesn't matter.

they look great!

Basing is one thing I dropped immediately from doing, because my minis used to see heavy use and like Krueger mentioned, all that stuff started to rub off over time and while it looked cool, the reality was I wasn't painting my figures for display.

If you want to add a little "pop" to your toolset of techniques - consider learning how to fade your colors in for effect. It's a simple technique but worth the effort if you're interested in upping your game.  http://www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com/miniature_painting_blending.html

Once you get used to doing it, it really adds a nice upgrade to your figures appearances. But be warned that some people can way overdo it (like anything else in painting figs). This would solve your cockroach issue and also add some nice effects to your otherwise awesome mouse and rat figs!!!

Those mice are great.  And the spider.  They are all great but those in particular I really like.

Very well done!  "White is a pain in the ass to paint," above, as  the original poster put it--my instinct is to always go for lighter grey and then a white drybrush.

"Sticky note pulls the basing material right off."  The advisor of my old university club devised a notation using a series of dots--this works best with some bases that have some thickness, like wargame bases, or the round slotta-bases that have some height, but you could put a colored dot or two on even a rpg miniature base and then paint or flock the rest.  (And sticky note went on the bottom of the base, anyway.)

Quote from: Gronan of Simmerya;1031426Also, take the advice of those who advocate "the three foot rule" -- that is, how they look from three feet away is the important part.

It took Chirine years to convince me to stop painting straps and buckles on my 25mm knights, because they could only be seen with a magnifier, so who cares?  The same for rivets on the hinges of the armor.  If you can't see it on the table, it doesn't matter.

That very issue is why I love smaller scale minis like 6mm or 10mm. Get the basic colors right and the bastards look great all massed up on the table.

Really nice work!

My only suggestion would be to actually paint and dry brush those rocks on the basing. It may sound dopey, but it'll make a world of difference. Right now you've got little tiny actual rocks surrounding painted guys. If you hit the rocks with a brown paint, dry brush them up with a couple of shades of beige/ochre, they'll look amazing.

Grab the Army Painter Technique Guide, and the Battlefields Basing Guide from here: https://www.thearmypainter.com/documents.php

Lots of great suggestions and easy-to-follow techniques in there.

Quote from: JongWK;1027800I'm planning to paint some Blood Bowl minis this month. Never tried painting before, so any tips are appreciated.

If you want to keep it simple but get a good result, try using the Army Painter dipping method.  This is an Infinity model I painted using Army Painter paints and techniques:



I'm pretty pleased with the result, which compare reasonably well to something I've painted with more traditional (and time-consuming) methods, like these:



I'd start with by watching all of the "How to paint X" videos on Army Painter's youtube channel.  If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.  I've been painting miniatures for years.

Quote from: tenbones;1031454they look great!

Basing is one thing I dropped immediately from doing, because my minis used to see heavy use and like Krueger mentioned, all that stuff started to rub off over time and while it looked cool, the reality was I wasn't painting my figures for display.

If you want to add a little "pop" to your toolset of techniques - consider learning how to fade your colors in for effect. It's a simple technique but worth the effort if you're interested in upping your game.  http://www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com/miniature_painting_blending.html

Once you get used to doing it, it really adds a nice upgrade to your figures appearances. But be warned that some people can way overdo it (like anything else in painting figs). This would solve your cockroach issue and also add some nice effects to your otherwise awesome mouse and rat figs!!!

Thanks for the site link

Quote from: Herne's Son;1031958Really nice work!

My only suggestion would be to actually paint and dry brush those rocks on the basing. It may sound dopey, but it'll make a world of difference. Right now you've got little tiny actual rocks surrounding painted guys. If you hit the rocks with a brown paint, dry brush them up with a couple of shades of beige/ochre, they'll look amazing.

Grab the Army Painter Technique Guide, and the Battlefields Basing Guide from here: https://www.thearmypainter.com/documents.php

Lots of great suggestions and easy-to-follow techniques in there.

I use mainly AP paints and have a bunch of their PDFs downloaded. =)

Quote from: wombat1;1031486Very well done!  "White is a pain in the ass to paint," above, as  the original poster put it--my instinct is to always go for lighter grey and then a white drybrush.

"Sticky note pulls the basing material right off."  The advisor of my old university club devised a notation using a series of dots--this works best with some bases that have some thickness, like wargame bases, or the round slotta-bases that have some height, but you could put a colored dot or two on even a rpg miniature base and then paint or flock the rest.  (And sticky note went on the bottom of the base, anyway.) Lucky Patcher 9Apps VidMate

yes I confirm that works better with certain bases having a certain thickness and I speak with an experience

Quote from: Ratman_tf;1027950I have my first miniatures I ever painted. Some 40k Space Marines done in testors enamels. They're atrocious.

Testors enamels with atrocious results?  Sounds a lot like the first minis I painted, some Grenadier Paranoia "trouble shooters" in the late 80s.